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  • Slip Stitch Crochet Hearts Free Pattern


    Slip Stitch Crochet Heart, reverse sc border, for my Slip Stitch Shaping Class 2014.This blog post is an overflow page for issue #76 of my crochet newsletter. Scroll down to see the heart shape chart, and then the full text of the Slip Stitch Crochet Hearts Free Pattern. To print, click on the little printer icon at the end of this post.

    We Need to Talk: Slip Stitch Skill Levels

    I rate this pattern Intermediate for slip stitch crocheters, and Advanced if you’re new to Slip Stitch Crochet. A good free crochet pattern for slip stitch beginners would be Eva’s Ribs Scarf. After that, Slip Tectonics or Undaria would bring novices solidly up to speed for these hearts.

    Seriously.

    I originally designed these crochet hearts for a three hour intermediate-level class on slip stitch shaping methods. “Slip Stitch Crochet 101” class was a prerequisite. After crocheting this heart, students would be equipped to crochet fitted sleeve caps and gracefully shaped armholes!

    You’ll be adding or subtracting only a stitch or two to make this heart. Not a big deal if you’ve ever increased and decreased with single crochets. It takes practice, though, to shape every row of slip stitches. Consider that even if you’ve already completed some slip stitch projects, most existing slip stitch crochet patterns involve only occasional shaping, if any. (If you’ve crocheted a slip stitch pattern with a significant amount of shaping, please tell me about it in the comments.)

    For a slip stitch beginner, the biggest challenge is recognizing what the stitches are doing to avoid increasing or decreasing by accident. It’s like learning to crochet all over again—and that can be humbling if you don’t expect it, but what a beautiful thing! How many of us long-time crocheters remember what it was like to learn how to crochet for the first time? If you’ve been crocheting for at least ten years already, you can revisit this life changing moment!

    I recommend that you cross off each row when you complete it to easily keep track of where you are. (I have to. For these crochet hearts I’d rather count stitches than rows.) For pattern help, visit my fabulous forum.

    Challenge Accepted? Great!

    Welcome to the “heart” of slip stitch country. Start with a thick smooth yarn and a big hook.

     

    Slip Stitch Crochet Hearts: Project “Shortbread Cookie”

    A Valentine Heart Pattern in Vertical Fss Rows.

    Abbreviations: ch=chain, Bss=back-loop-only slip stitch, Fss=front-loop-only slip stitch, sc=single crochet, ss=slip stitch,  st(s)=stitch(es).

    Slip Stitch Crochet Hearts: Chart for free pattern

    Chain 4.

    Row 1: Skip ch nearest your hook, ss in any loop of each remaining ch, turn: 3 ss. Easy, right?

    Notice that every odd-numbered row ends at the top of the heart and every even-numbered row ends at the bottom of it. The yarn end (referred to as “tail” from now on) is at the top of the heart, so whenever you crochet toward the tail end, you must be on an odd-numbered row.

    Row 2: Ch 2, ss in 2nd ch from your hook (an increase of one st), Fss in first ss, 2 Fss in each of next 2 ss, turn: 6 ss. 

    • Increasing: There are lots of ways to increase with slip stitches. Try a slip stitch in the front loop, and then in the back loop of the same stitch. Or, use the method you prefer. I described my favorites in the newsletter issue.

    No row will ever have more than 10 sts in it. If you have trouble seeing which loops to crochet into:

    • It will get easier after 3 rows or so. You won’t see the heart shape develop until you’re halfway there (Row 9).
    • The st count matters more than choosing the correct loop. Count as you crochet and add a st in a good enough loop if need be. The most common problem for slip stitchers is identifying which st is the last one of the row. Counting as you go helps and you won’t need to use a stitch marker.
    • I don’t count my rows. As I complete each row I put a checkmark next to it on the pattern. I also rely heavily on the yarn tail–whether I’m crocheting a row toward the tail or away from it.
    • Questions? Ask in my forum

    Row 3: Ch 2, ss in 2nd ch from your hook, Fss in each ss, turn: 7 ss.

    Rows 4 & 5: Repeat Row 3. At the end of Row 5 you’ll have 9 ss.

    Row 6: Ch 1, Fss in each ss, turn: 9 ss.

    Row 7: Repeat Row 3: 10 ss.

    Row 8: Ch 1, skip first ss (a decrease of one st), Fss in each remaining ss, turn: 9 ss.

    Row 9: Ch 2, ss in 2nd ch from your hook, Fss in each ss to last st, turn leaving last st unworked: 9 ss.

    Row 10: Ch 1, skip first ss, Fss in each ss to last st, 2 ss in last st, turn: 9 ss.

    Row 11: Repeat Row 10: 9 ss.

    Row 12: Repeat Row 9: 9 ss.

    Row 13: Ch 1, Fss in each ss to last st, 2 ss in last st, turn: 10 ss.

    Row 14: Ch 1, Fss in each ss to last st, turn leaving last st unworked: 9 ss.

    Row 15: Repeat Row 6: 9 ss.

    Row 16-18: Repeat Row 14. At the end of Row 18 you’ll have 6 ss.

    Row 19: Ch 1, skip first ss, Fss in next ss, [skip next ss, Fss in next ss] twice, turn: 3 ss.

    Before edging. Slip Stitch Crochet Hearts: free pattern 2016.

    This is how it looks after quick blocking and before edging it with a round of slip stitches.

    Round 1 (add a border of ss): Fss in each ss of Row 19, ss in one loop at the end of each row to bottom point of heart, [ss, ch 1, ss] in it, continue edging row ends to first row, ss in each of the 3 foundation chs, ss in remaining row ends, join to start of round with a ss.

    Note: Edging these crochet hearts is not as laborious as it might seem. Even though it’s not easy to identify each row end, this needn’t slow you down. I mostly just estimate where to put my next stitch, and it comes out looking perfectly nice, especially after simple blocking.

    Finishing: Fasten off, or add another round of ss, or reverse sc. Be sure to damp block: stretch all edges in every direction then let it settle into a smooth, symmetrical-enough heart shape and let dry. Make another like the first so that you can seam them together with a ss seam, add a bit of stuffing and hide the ends.

    Experiment Freely with this Free Heart Chart

    The grid rows of the chart are tailored to Fss stitch height, but why impose limits on your heart? You could try using single crochets instead, for example. The heart shape may widen or narrow a bit. Or, try back-loop slip stitches (Bss) after you’ve made a few crochet hearts in all front-loop slip stitches (Fss). (The back loops of slip stitches are trickier to identify than front loops for some folks at first.)

    I hope you’ll show us your crochet hearts in my fabulous forum.

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    • February 12th, 2016 by Vashti Braha

    Preview: Aery Faery Lacy Tunisian Crochet Scarf


    I’m looking over the photos I’ve taken so far of my newest Tunisian crochet design. Lately, the weather here has created some moody lighting. Have a look at these!

    Aery Faery Lacy Tunisian Crochet Scarf End

    My first filet-like Tunisian crochet lace in opalescent mohair and silk.

    I’m calling it Aery-Faery because it is faerie-like and diaphanous, like fairy wings. I’ve crocheted most of it while watching the first season of Once Upon a Time. In fact, I’m pretty sure the idea for this design first came to me while watching the show.

    Aery Faery Lacy Tunisian Crochet Scarf/Stole

    Scarf shown draped like a stole. It’s very stretchy!

    The yarn is divine for a lacy Tunisian crochet scarf.

    It’s Artyarns Silk Mohair Glitter; a strand of Lurex is plied with the silk and mohair. It’s particularly fine and smooth. The dyeing is gorgeous. You can’t tell from some of the photos, but it’s the subtle colors of a milky opal. The colors shift like they do in an opal, too.

    The Aery-Faery pattern draft is done. I’m testing a variation tonight and have the final proofreading to do before sending it off for tech editing and testing.

     

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    • November 16th, 2014 by Vashti Braha

    How to Increase Tunisian Crochet Stitch Blocks


    Today’s post is about how to increase tunisian crochet at those tricky row ends!

    These are winning methods because they don’t limit how many stitches you can increase at a time. (Please see issue #64 of my newsletter for more). This means I can smoothly add big lacy spaces and whole blocks of solid stitch repeats where I wish in Tunisian crochet. This is something I’ve always loved about regular crochet.

    Method #1. How to increase Tunisian crochet stitches with the Half Hitch method

    How to increase Tunisian crochet: the Half Hitch Method
    A half hitch is simply a loop with a twist in it.

    The simple little loop shown in this first photo is used to crochet limpets. It’s best known as the simple/single/backwards loop cast on in knitting. It’s also used in tatting and in macramé. This video* shows half hitches being added to a knitting. This is how I do it and I’ve really picked up speed.
    *Scroll past the first one (“Long-Tail Cast-On”) to the one called “Single Cast-On Also Known As Backward-Loop Cast-On.”

    In my original 2009 blog post about this method I use a pair of them as a double half hitch (dhh). Any number of half hitches can also be used singly for shaping Tunisian crochet.

    Method #2. How to increase Tunisian crochet stitches with the Tunisian Foundation Slip Stitch method

    How to increase Tunisian crochet stitches with the Tfslst Method

    Feel free to choose a loop other than the tinted ones shown. These are the fastest ones for me.

    At the end of your Forward Pass, insert hook in one side loop of the end stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Then chain the number of stitches you wish to add. I chained four in this second photo. Then take the last loop off of your hook; your stitches should resemble those in the photo.

    Then, insert your hook under one loop of the first chain (tinted pink) and leave on your hook. Repeat with each remaining chain; then put the live loop back on your hook, as described in the caption.

    I found this Tfslst method after I designed the Five Peaks Shawl with half hitch increases. I used Tfslsts in the Four Peaks Scarf pattern, and most recently in the Warm Aeroette Scarf.

    I love having both of these methods to choose from, depending on the project.

    They are probably interchangeable enough that you could use the one you prefer. (More on that in the newsletter.)

    The most important thing is to choose a method that doesn’t impose a limit!

    Often when someone asks in a forum how to increase Tunisian crochet stitches, the advice is to squeeze them in. Typically this means adding a stitch in another loop just behind or next to another stitch. This method is fine if you’re replacing a stitch that you accidentally decreased in an earlier row. If you think of basic Tunisian crochet fabric as a grid, space was already reserved for the missing stitch, and you’re just filling it back in.

    How to increase Tunisian crochet steadily at the edges a better way
    Effect of the “squeeze-it-in” method shows in the left swatch. Not recommended for something like a shawl.

    The Squeeze-it-in: my least favorite shaping method.

    The Squeeze-it-in method has limits. It’s okay for just a rare stitch here and there, and away from the edges. In other words, as an “internal” shaping method. I don’t mean to impose rigid rules. Depending on the project, yarn type, and hook size, squeezing in new stitches whenever you wish may come out fine.

    For me, this shaping method often interferes with my goal of a languid, swaying drape for Tunisian crochet accessories. When I consider how to increase Tunisian crochet edges for a new design, Squeeze-me-in is last on my list.

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    • November 7th, 2014 by Vashti Braha

    Crochet Mobius Cowl Wearing Styles


    Simply add a mobius twist to an infinity scarf to multiply the ways it drapes.

    A crochet mobius cowl pattern adds an easy mobius twist to a crochet infinity scarf (a.k.a. long loop scarf). This instantly increases the stylish ways to wear it!

    Have a look at this image I created for the downloadable Starlooper Mobius Cowl crochet pattern. It’s a new design that I added to the shop yesterday. This montage of NINE images means I don’t have to pick just ONE wearing style to display.

    Starlooper Crochet Cowl Scarf: Directory of Styles (montage)

    If you had to pick only ONE of these nine images, which would it be?

    I love a good crochet mobius cowl pattern because it flatters the face and neck effortlessly, no matter how it settles on the shoulders. Plus, of course, they offer easy warmth. (Click here to see an early newsletter issue I wrote called “A Fever for Crocheting Cowls” LOL!)

    For Starlooper I used a special kind of crochet star stitch pattern. It’s naturally a bit offset, reversible, and has accordion-like pleats. It’s also fast, soft, and warm for fall. (Click here to see many more star stitches!)

    I’ve been learning ways to create draping montages like this image for years. Want to see earlier ones? Click here for Shakti Scarfythings and here for Undaria.

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    • September 27th, 2014 by Vashti Braha


    © 2010 Designing Vashti All Rights Reserved

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