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Wearing Crochet to a Memorial Service

Four views of Graven worn with its buttons in front or back.

I traveled over the weekend to attend a memorial service for the sudden death of a beloved uncle.

The chapel accommodates 280 people, and 360 attended. Fortunately the weather was ideal (around 80º and sunny) so that the building could be open on two (maybe three? sides. The overflow of people could sit comfortably outside and feel included.

I designed something specifically to wear to this event and had two weeks to make it. That includes all swatching, blocking, and any do-overs.

The Challenge: Accepted.

Wearing crochet to this event meant meeting three strict requirements.

The short, fixed deadline.

I had to rule out my very first idea: to crochet a Chanel-style jacket. Instead I started imagining something that would take two balls of yarn or less.

Result: The finished Graven weighs 108g (slightly over one 256-yd ball).

The second limit was its style and color.

The 3-button front Graven capelet and black dress and pearls.
A stop at Starbucks after the memorial.

Graven would have to be far more subdued than my default personal style, so I ruled out several initial ideas. It also had to be solid black; a challenge because that’s not what I tend to crochet. Sure, I often wear black clothing as a plain first layer that forms a background to a (sometimes crocheted) lighter-colored layer. I struggled at first to picture wearing crochet in solid black on a sunny Florida morning, not for evening, or in a northern office.

Result: I wore Graven all day. It was mostly easy and comfortable to wear, and felt elegant and proper style wise. I did have to adjust it periodically so that the buttons stayed centered. (I think this is because I accidentally increased some rows unevenly.)

It had to work with my dress and high heels.

The dress was a simple sleeveless deep V-front shift made of an inky black pima-modal fabric. Its surface had a woven linen look but it was actually a fine knit. Very comfortable to wear in Florida! It needed a dressy covering for the upper arms and chest though.

Result: Armed with these three requirements, I narrowed down my project to a fairly traditional shoulder covering, crocheted in a fairly tame lace stitch texture, with a polished-looking yarn that’s not too thin or thick: a capelet in Tunisian crochet with Lotus. (Our “Black Gleam” color matched the dress! whew.)

Other Requirements I Hoped to Meet

Half of the capelet shown flat along its hem while it blocks.
Half of the capelet shown flat along its hem while it blocks.

Learn something new about crochet: this was the first time I tried doing a Tunisian “wicker” mesh in short rows with a built-in shaped collar, and a distinctive twisted-loop edging at the hem.

Use yarn already in my stash, ideally my Lotus yarn. I try to feature a different Lotus color each time I design with it. This was the first time I designed with the black.

Try out a trendy style: The trend of using mesh textures in a modern, sort of sporty way inspired the stitch pattern. (The edging later added more of a medieval-ish wrought iron look.)

Give my handmade item the kind of polish that could even make someone wonder if it was a store-bought designer label. (I don’t know if this actually happened).

Wearing Crochet to Memorials

I’d do it again. It was a tangible comfort to me.

Although I don’t think I caught sight of all 360 people individually, I feel confident in saying that I was the only one wearing crochet, or even a hand knit item.

To me, fabric has a language, and crochet adds a necessary voice to the conversation, at memorials too. Time spent crocheting Graven was also time spent contemplating the uncle I will miss so much. Crochet caught and is holding my feelings for him.

Beyond Basic Crochet

"Wrap Map" schematic for the Eilanner Shawl, an Advanced-Intermediate Tunisian crochet pattern.
Above is most of the “Wrap Map” for Eilanner, a Tunisian crochet pattern rated Experienced Skill Level.

This section is for crocheters who are comfortable with the basics. (How do you know if you’re ready? Have a look at Crochet Basics in Depth.)

It feels so natural to progress along a flow of crochet experiences that it’s easy to forget how unique our own crochet skill sets become. When we attend crochet conferences, I see us as walking worlds of art: building one-of-a-kind inner “crazy quilts” of crochet experience, and following our own individualized learning plans.

Beyond the Basics Tips & Tutorials

I wrote the tutorials, tips, and tweaks for this section with an eye toward connecting them to specific basic principles, rather than to a standard skill levelWe’re all crochet specialists and beginners simultaneously, in different ways.

  1. How to Crochet Love Knots
  2. Crocheting the Love Knot Mesh
  3. Foundation Star Stitches, Step by Step
  4. How to Increase Tunisian Stitch Blocks
  5. When to Crochet BETWEEN Top Loops

Crochet Patterns by Skill Level

For Beginner- and Easy-level patterns, see the Crochet Basics, in Depth page. Note: if a pattern has more than one skill-level tag, it means the pattern includes options or variations that vary in skill level.

Read More

  • View all blog posts tagged with shaping
  • View all blog posts tagged with class
  • View all blog posts tagged with stitch tech
This linked index is self-updating so be sure to bookmark this page.

Hook-Led Gauge

Learning how to let your crochet hook determine your stitch gauge is possibly the most valuable skill a crocheter could develop.

Why is it so Important?

Starwirbel Class: Star Stitch Crochet Lace (downloadable pattern)
A hook-led gauge gave rise to Starwirbel

Crocheters traditionally fall into a habit of making their chains and slip stitches tighter than their other stitches, regardless of their hook size. Some may be taught to do this unintentionally, or because it can improve some thread crochet patterns.

Other crocheters are actually using a”yarn-led gauge”. They use the yarn as a gauge guide. Crocheters accustomed to mostly cotton yarn or thread, which is not stretchy to work with like wool, tend to do this.

Hook-led gauge is necessary for:

How Do You Do It?

Every crocheter starts out with a natural gauge, often called the “crocheter’s hand.” One person may crochet more tightly (or loosely) no matter the size of the crochet hook they’re using.

Start by watching the stitch loops as you crochet.

If the loops tighten, notice when and where. It might even be just after you complete the stitch. (I’ve seen crocheters purposely make a loose stitch, then unwittingly yank the yarn just before beginning the next stitch.) If taller stitches are consistently tight, you might be making each stitch on the tapered neck of your hook instead of the shaft, where it stops tapering nearer to the thumb rest. If you have a mixture of tight and loose loops, consider how you are holding the yarn. These are just a few things that could be happening.

How to know you’ve met your goal?

Make stitch loops that accommodate the diameter of the hook. This means use the shaft part of the hook as a guide, where its neck stops tapering before the thumb rest. Compare the girth to the space between the top two loops of your stitches. It’s a very good sign if it looks like there’s enough space for your crochet hook to fit.

Now just practice enough to update the muscle memory in your hands. Your fingers will start to feel the difference and your eyes will develop visual cues.

You’ll be well on your way to creating dramatic effects with fancy, skinny yarns and oversized crochet hooks! Sometimes I think of it as “crocheting with air” — that’s how it might feel to use a very big crochet hook with a fine or very stretchy yarn.

What if You Don’t Like Your Hook-Led Gauge?

I used an H (5 mm) crochet hook with fine sock weight yarn for a luxuriously soft Jempool Scarf.

Say you’re accustomed to being a tight crocheter, but now you can crochet with a hook-led gauge. Congratulations! BUT—you need tighter stitches for a certain project. What do you do?

The answer is the same as if you crocheted too loosely before a hook-led gauge and need looser stitches: you change the hook size, not your crocheting. Change to a smaller hook size for tighter stitches, or a larger hook size for looser stitches. This is why patterns always add “or size needed for gauge” after the stated crochet hook size.

Hook-led gauge is actually an intermediate skill that leads to advanced crocheting, although it’s not listed in any of the standard skill level descriptions.

You might feel a bit outside of your comfort zone at first. If so, just tell yourself that you’re investing in your hobby: a world of exciting new stitches and designs will open up to you.

An earlier version was published March 21, 2010 at Vashti’s Crochet Pattern Companion blog.
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DesigningVashti News Roundup

Hello from the Other Side

…of the Great Website Overhaul of 2017. ? RIP sweet old DesigningVashti site from 2010. ?

For this first blog post at my new ‘n improved DesigningVashti.com, I’ll firm up loose loops by bringing you up to date.

Crochet Inspirations Newsletter

Freshly fallen mango tree in our front yard. Hurricane Irma
Freshly fallen mango tree in our front yard from Hurricane Irma.

Top of mind is the next issue (#88). Now that this website is up and working smoothly, I can focus on it again. I’ve mulled topic #88 since the week before Hurricane Irma grazed us. This site now has a respectable About the Newsletter page. (On my list is to put a sign-up form on it.)

You know, people have told me over the years that I should charge a subscription fee for the newsletter. I don’t know if they’re right, but I can tell you that if I had been, it would have weighed on me heavily while trying to get back up to speed after the storm!

We evacuated for Irma and that’s mighty rare. It was so nerve-wracking that the only crocheting I could muster was a swatch for the newsletter. Fortunately I didn’t lose it amidst the upheaval because that one swatch gave me a lot to think about.

omg, the Mamruana CAL-DAL

Mamruana Crochet-Along edging test: 3-inch fringe.
Mamruana Crochet-Along edging test: 3-inch fringe.

I launched the Mamruana Crochet Along/Design-Along Aug. 24 in my Ravelry forum. The “design-

along” part is a new kind of medium for me. The CAL-DAL was humming along by the time Irma was aiming for our area.

Fortunately, the DAL part gives a CAL a more open-ended timeline and direction, because a series of hurricanes and fires put a damper on the momentum. Any work I could do had to go to the website. I couldn’t even blog about the CAL; the blog part of the site was down the longest.

After this blog post I can add a fringe update to the forum thread!

Crochet Videos

Rosepuff crochet videos by Vashti
Crochet Rosepuff videos (in-depth one for owners of the pattern).

I had just begun creating videos before Irma. I have some raw clips waiting, in fact. YouTube even emailed me and said, “Hey, do you need encouragement? You’re doing great.”

We tore down my home filming “studio” in preparation to evacuate for the hurricane. I can set it up again now that this new website is live.

Ideally, the next newsletter issue will have a short video clip or gif.

Vashti’s Crochet Archives

In May I announced that I was going to start putting my crochet stuff online. Weird little obstacles cropped up at various sites as I did so. It turns out the updated features of this website are perfect! I did not foresee this! Also probably ideal for others who would be interested in my crochet archives because it will be all in one place, tightly interlinked.

New Crochet Patterns

It’s true, there have never been more new patterns in various stages of completion. Wonderful tech editors and diagram makers are still standing by to help me too (I hope). I’m anxious to get back to pattern writing as well as to newsletter #88. I’m also working on a new Tunisian design.

About Doris Chan

I’m delighted that my good friend Doris Chan has chosen DesigningVashti.com to be the exclusive source for her independent crochet pattern line, DJC Designs

Like many crocheters, I’ve been a fan of her elegantly wearable designs since the moment I discovered them in 2003. Doris’ DJC patterns are listed all in one place on our home page for your convenience.   –Vashti

Doris’ creative genius for seamless top-down in-the-round garment construction is easy and exciting to crochet because she makes sure her patterns have the professional stitch diagrams they require. Doris also doesn’t hold back on the helpful tips and fitting advice, based on her wealth of experience. Her DJC patterns are usually booklet-sized because of the extensive visual aids, options, and range of sizes.

Visit her blog, Doris Chan Crochet.

Join her Ravelry forum, Doris Chan Crochet.

2016 CGOA Hall of Fame Recipient

Doris Chan has been at the forefront of modern crochet design ever since a photo of her doily shawl attracted the attention of a notable yarn company in 2002. Shortly thereafter, she joined the Crochet Guild of America and became a familiar face and an enthusiastic volunteer at the Chain Link conferences.

With her design approach, prodigious output, and tireless service, Doris has impacted every corner of the industry: from the fit of seamless crochet clothing, to yarn design, to the visibility of crochet in knit-centric contexts. She inspires devotion in magazine editors and yarn companies for her drop-everything design turnaround times. Her large fan base adores her seamless, polished approach to modern lace clothing that is fun to crochet and easy to wear proudly; and, her can-do spirit is irresistible.

Doris has been a passionate force for creating spaces for newer crochet designers to thrive. Her mentoring mantra is “If I can do this, YOU can.” The annual fashion shows and design contests presented by CGOA have grown into well-organized events over the past decade due to her efforts and leadership.

Doris’ four crochet books with Potter Craft/Random House:

  1. Convertible Crochet: Customizable Designs for Stylish Garments (2013)
  2. Crochet Lace Innovations: 20 Dazzling Designs in Broomstick, Hairpin, Tunisian, and Exploded Lace (2010)
  3. Everyday Crochet: Wearable Designs Just for You (2007)
  4. Amazing Crochet Lace: New Fashions Inspired by Old-Fashioned Lace (2006)

Born in 1954, Doris Chan worked in radio before designing crochet professionally. She can often be seen on stage with her local theatre group in Pennsylvania.