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Q-Star Coverlet

Note: The old URL for this design was www.shop.designingvashti.com/q-star-coverlet-reversible-star-stitches-24l-h5415.htm. The permanent URL for it is now https://www.designingvashti.com/product/q-star-coverlet-star-stitch/.

Q-Star Coverlet is a lavish, reversible star stitch pattern that results in a beautifully durable and warm blanket—just like a real quilt. (The “Q” is for “quilted.”) Pattern includes photo tutorials and 2 reversible borders: wrapped puff eyelets, or simple solid single crochet.

I developed the Q-star stitch to combine special features of other star stitches, and to eliminate biasing. I built in a nice selvage stitch for a stable edge. A surprise Q-uality of Q-stars is that they’re fully reversible!

Skill Level: Intermediate

This pattern is written with a minimal amount of abbreviations. UK and Australian equivalents for American measurements, yarn weights, and stitch terms are in brackets { }.

After using this pattern you will know (if you didn’t already):

How to crochet an eleven-loop star stitch (22 loops if double-stranded).
How to understand and use reversible star stitches.
How crocheting with two different colors held together affects star stitches.
How to end each row with a selvage stitch for perfectly straight, neat, stabilized edges.
How to do a fully reversible surface slip stitch trim.

Finished Dimensions

Include a 1.5”-wide {3.8 cm} border. It’s easy to change the finished size by increasing or decreasing stitches and rows (guidelines provided in the pattern).

Baby Stroller & Crib Blanket: 30” x 35” {76.2 cm by 88.9 cm}
Lapghan: 38” x 45” {96.5 cm x 114.3 cm}
Throw: 45″ x 56″ {114.3 cm x 142.2 cm}
Twin Bed & Day Bed: 50″ x 72″ {127.0 cm x 182.9 cm}

Supplies Needed

Crochet Hook: I/9/5.5mm or size required for gauge.

Yarn used for the two-colored blankets: Two strands of different colors were held together throughout of DesigningVashti.com Lotus (52% Cotton, 48% Rayon; 256yd/234m per 3.5oz/100g skein). Color pairings shown: Pink Sugar and Peachy Sheen; Crystal Blue and Bamboo Green; Grenadine and Dark Roast. Two Lotus cones of each color would be enough to make the Lapghan size; add a third cone of each color to make the Throw size. For a baby blanket, use just one strand.

Notes about this yarn and substituting: Star stitches are so beautiful in this yarn that I originally planned to make a fancy jacket! As a coverlet it has a sleek, supple, heavy luster. Using two strands of similar colors, such as pink and peach, gives the stars a rich dimensional look. Choose a #2 Fine Weight yarn in one or two colors (a.k.a. Sport, Heavy Sock, Light DK, 5-Ply). You’ll be crocheting with two strands of it held together. Or use one strand of a yarn in the “#4 Medium Weight yarn” category (worsted, afghan, aran weight).

Yarn used for light grey blanket: One strand of Red Heart Fiesta (73% acrylic, 27% nylon, 316yds/289m per 6oz/170g skein. Color #6341 “Millenium”: 6 skeins for a Lapghan, 9 skeins for the Throw, and 12 skeins for the Twin/Day Bed size.

5 stitch markers, optional (4 to mark each corner stitch and a contrasting 5th one to mark the join while completing the border).

Posted on November 7, 2014September 5, 2020 by Vashti Braha — 3 Comments

How to Increase Tunisian Crochet Stitch Blocks

New Corner-to-corner Warm Tunisian scarf with filet border

Three ways to add stitches at the end of a Forward Pass

It’s good to know how to increase Tunisian crochet stitches more than one way because every project is different. These first two methods are my favorite because they don’t limit how many stitches you can increase at a time. This means I can smoothly add big lacy spaces and whole blocks of solid stitch repeats, when and where I wish, in Tunisian crochet. This is something I’ve always loved about regular crochet.

Have a favorite method of your own? Please let me know in the comments!

Method #1. How to Add Tunisian Stitches with Half Hitches

Each of the two loops added to the crochet hook are loosened to make it easy to see that they're simple loops with a bit of twist before adding to the hook. — A half hitch is simply a loop with a twist in it.

In my original 2009 blog post about this method, I use a pair of half hitches as one increase. This pair is well known to those who do macramé as the double half hitch (dhh). As far as I know, I’m the first to use it as an edge increase.

A single half hitch can also be used for adding a new stitch, and I’ve since found it mentioned for this in a few older books on Tunisian crochet. I add them to a timeline in this half hitch resource post as I find out about them.

The half hitch is also well known in knitting as the simple/single/backwards loop cast on in knitting. This video shows half hitches being added to a knitting. This is how I do it and I’ve really picked up speed.

How to Do the Double Half Hitch Increase (DHH)

3-step diagram of how to increase Tunisian Crochet stitches. — Two **crossed loops**, or **half hitches**, have been added to the crochet hook. The pink bar indicates which loops are the half hitches. In Step 3, the two have been crocheted off of the hook together. It’s a mini-limpet!

Method #2. Use Tunisian Foundation Slip Stitches as Increases

Tunisian foundation slip stitch: at the end of a Forward Pass, chain, remove last loop from hook, insert hook in a ch loop, then put live loop back onto hook. An increase of one stitch. — Feel free to choose a loop other than the tinted ones shown.

At the end of your Forward Pass, insert hook in one side loop of the end stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Then chain the number of stitches you wish to add. (I chained four in this photo.) Then take the last loop off of your hook; your chain stitches should resemble those in the photo.

Then, insert your hook under one loop of the first chain (tinted pink) and leave on your hook. Repeat with each remaining chain; then put the live loop back on your hook, as described in the caption.

I discovered this Tfslst method after I designed the Five Peaks Shawl with half hitch increases. Tfslsts is the method of choice in the Four Peaks Scarf pattern and in the Warm Aeroette Scarf (pictured at the top).

I love having both of these methods to choose from, depending on the project.

They are probably interchangeable enough that you could use the one you prefer. (More on that in the newsletter.)

The most important thing is to choose a method that doesn’t impose a limit! Especially when you’re crocheting something that has a diagonal edge and needs to drape nicely, like a triangular shawl or an asymmetrical scarf. Compare the triangles below.

Often when someone asks in a forum how to increase Tunisian crochet stitches, the advice is to squeeze them in. Typically this means adding a stitch in another loop just behind or next to another stitch. This method is fine if you’re replacing a stitch that you accidentally decreased in an earlier row. If you think of basic Tunisian crochet fabric as a grid, space was already reserved for the missing stitch, and you’re just filling it back in.

Method #3. The “Squeeze-It-In” (my least favorite shaping method).

Left triangular swatch is starting to curl along one edge. Other triangle is symmetrical with nice drape. — Effect of the “squeeze-it-in” method shows in the left swatch. Not recommended for something like a shawl.

The Squeeze-it-in method has limits. It’s okay for just a rare stitch here and there, and away from the edges. In other words, as an “internal” shaping method. I don’t mean to impose rigid rules. Depending on the project, yarn type, and hook size, squeezing in new stitches when you wish may come out fine.

For me, this shaping method often interferes with my goal of a languid, swaying drape for Tunisian crochet accessories. When I consider how to increase Tunisian crochet edges for a new design, Squeeze-it-in is last on my list.

Posted on September 27, 2014September 10, 2020 by Vashti Braha — 2 Comments

Crochet Mobius Cowl Wearing Styles

Simply add a mobius twist to an infinity scarf to multiply the ways it drapes.

A crochet mobius cowl pattern adds an easy mobius twist to a crochet infinity scarf (a.k.a. long loop scarf). This instantly increases the stylish ways to wear it!

Have a look at this image I created for the downloadable new Starlooper Mobius Cowl crochet pattern. This montage of NINE images means I don’t have to pick just ONE wearing style to display.

I love a good crochet mobius cowl pattern because it flatters the face and neck effortlessly, no matter how it settles on the shoulders. Plus, of course, they offer easy warmth. You might enjoy an early newsletter issue I wrote called “A Fever for Crocheting Cowls” LOL!

For Starlooper I used a special kind of crochet star stitch pattern. It’s naturally a bit offset, reversible, and has accordion-like pleats. It’s also fast, soft, and warm for fall. (One of many star stitches.)

I’ve been learning ways to create draping montages like this image for years. Want to see earlier ones? Here’s Shakti Scarfythings. Check out Undaria!

Starlooper Mobius

I’ve combed through 200 crochet sources and haven’t yet found pre-1973 occurrences of this simple, reversible, accordion-like star stitch. I’ve modified it to emphasize its natural pleated effect, and its lovely scalloped edges.

This Starlooper pattern includes a choice of finished dimensions and optional accent stripes. Depending on when you stop crocheting and how you seam it, you’ll need 1 to 2 skeins (219 – 438 yards or 200 – 400 meters) of medium weight yarn. Any smooth medium weight yarn would be great. The edge-as-you-go feature would also bring out the best in a self-striping or tonal yarn.

It’s a fast project to memorize and crochet because the pattern is a simple one-row repeat.

Starlooper is the third in a series of quick and easy star stitch projects that I designed as I created Star stitch class booklets. My goal is to design with different kinds of Stars in ways that take advantage of the unique charms of each.

Skill Level

Easy. I’ve kept pattern abbreviations to a minimum and include International English equivalents for American terms.

?After using this pattern, you will know (if you didn’t already):

How to crochet a simple, useful Star stitch pattern.
How to heighten the best qualities of this Star stitch, and understand its texture.
How to create several cowl, moebius, and loop scarf styles from one simple pattern.
How to use simple edge-as-you-go patterns like this one with yarns in your stash.

Finished Dimensions

Each row measures 9.75″ {24.75 cm} across; inner circumferences are stretchy and approximate. Wearing styles are determined by the total number of rows.

Snug Cowl: at least 180 yds {165 m} for at least a 19″ {48.25 cm} circumference.
Flat Neck Wrap (unseamed): A full skein of 219 yds {200 m} or slightly more: 28″ {71.12 cm} long.
Relaxed Cowl (seamed) & Layered Neck Wrap (unseamed): Approx. 280 yds {256 m)}: 35″ {89 cm} circumference or unseamed length.
Shoulder “Moebi:” Approx. 315 yds {288 m}: 43″ {109.22 cm} circumference.
Long Loop Scarf and the Multilayer Cowl: 52″ {132 cm} circumference; stretches to approx. 59″ {149.86 cm} when hung. The Multilayer Cowl at the bottom of page 7 is the Long Loop Scarf wrapped twice around the neck.

Materials

Crochet Hook: Size US I/9 {5.5 mm} or size required for gauge.
Stitch markers: one or two may be helpful at first.
Yarn Used: A 100% fine quality imported Merino Wool; 219 yds {200 m} per 3.5 oz {100 g} skein): one skein or two, depending on desired finished dimensions (see above).

To substitute a different yarn of the same thickness: Choose a smooth #4 Medium Weight yarn with a bouncy wool texture that lists a crochet hook size range from US H/8 {5 mm} to US J/10 {6 mm} on its label. These yarns may also be referred to as Worsted, Aran, Afghan, and occasionally “Light Chunky” Weight. Bouncy wool type yarns look more corrugated or pleated; a silky plant yarn will flatten. Consider a self-striping, tonal, ombre, or variegated yarn, or add a few contrasting stripes as shown in some of the photos. (View album here.)

To substitute a thinner yarn to crochet with two strands held together throughout: You can also crochet it with two strands of a sport weight yarn held together throughout. I mention this because I’ve been enjoying the effect of crocheting Star stitches with multiple colors or strands held together. Choose a #2 Fine Weight yarn with a recommended crochet hook size range of US E/4 {3.5 mm} to US G/6 {4.0 mm}. These yarns may also be referred to as Sport {Light DK, 5-Ply}.

Starwirbel

By 1891, star stitches were already popular for baby blankets, sacques, hats, and coats. In wool yarns and tight gauges, the dense starry “spokes” create a sweet padded fabric still loved today. A decade or two before they went in the thermal direction, star stitches were crocheted with lace weight wool yarns and big hooks in reversible rows to make veil-like “fascinators”…sort of like Starwirbel.

I’m delighted to share my discovery of a special type of 19^th century star stitch in the form of this veil-like “smoke ring.” Unlike the usual star stitch projects, Starwirbel is stretchy and weightless, yet holds its shape. I’ve enhanced its starry texture with a spiraling construction, twinkly yarn, and a bit of invisible increasing.

Emphasizing the “eyes” of these orbiting stars adds to the special effects. I’ve smoothed the look of the “spokes” radiating from them to brighten the eyes even more. An emphasis on the eyes also makes crocheting this project fast and easy (the eyes show you where to crochet the next stitch).

It’s also quick to crochet because the loops are large, and crocheted in a continuous spiral. I could finish one in an evening.

It feels weightless and for good reason: I had yarn left over from a small 25 gram ball. This lace cowl weighs in at less than an ounce, requiring less than 136 yards (124 m). The lacy capelet used only about 200 yds (183 m).

Skill Level

Easy Intermediate. This is an easy star stitch variation I developed specially for this design. The challenge for some crocheters might be to make consistently loose stitches with a big crochet hook and superfine yarn.

The earliest instances of star stitches I’ve found (1881-1891) inspired me. I think of Starwirbel as an easier (and starrier) type of star to crochet for several reasons: they always face the front; the enlarged eyes are easy to see and crochet into; their side loops are not used; and there is no joining of rounds. (Wirbel is German for whirl, which is what it feels like to crochet these airy spiraling Stars.)

I discovered a surprising range of variations while preparing to teach a class on star stitches. My goal is to design with them in ways that take advantage of the unique charms of each Star type.

New in 2018: the pattern is updated with a stitch diagram and option to start project with a foundation star stitch.

I’ve kept pattern abbreviations to a minimum and include International English equivalents for American terms.

?After using this pattern, you will know (if you didn’t already):

How to crochet a star stitch pattern in a historic manner and understand its texture.
How to heighten the best qualities of this star stitch.
How to crochet star stitches in a spiral (no joining of rounds and no turning).
How to increase star stitches invisibly.
How to crochet a consistently loose stitch gauge with a superfine yarn.

Finished Dimensions

Cowl: Circumference of head opening: 21″ {53.34 cm}; widens at shoulder to 30″ {76.2 cm} and stretches to approx. 40″ {101.6 cm}. Length with folded collar: 15″ {38 cm}.

Capelet: Circumference of head opening: 28″ {71.12 cm}; widens at shoulder to 54″ {137.16 cm} and stretches to approx. 68″ {172.72 cm}. Length: 16″ {40.64 cm}.

Materials

Crochet Hook: Sizes US O/15 {11.5 mm or 12 mm} and US L/11 {8 mm} or sizes required for gauge. The smaller crochet hook is used for the edging only.
Stitch markers: A half-dozen or so (one for each invisible increase).
Yarn Used: Schulana Kid-Paillettes (42% kid mohair, 40% polyester, 18% silk; 136 yd/125 m per 0.875oz/25g): 1 (2) skein(s) of color #320 (dove gray with silver sequins).

To substitute a different yarn of the same thickness: Mohair-textured yarns come in a dizzying array of thicknesses that can look equivalent until they are crocheted! Choose a #0 Lace weight {UK & AUS 1 or 2 Ply} yarn. Note that this category of yarn encompasses a range of superfine yarns. Try one that lists a knitting needle range of 4 mm – 5.5 mm.