I seamed with stitch equivalents in this 2019 image. It was not in the original 2011 newsletter issue #2, A Super Crochet Maneuver. It’s explained at the end.
First, the original newsletter issue, below. It went out to a few more than 300 subscribers in September 2010. That’s nine years ago! I’ve removed the original two-column formatting, colored backgrounds, and especially the outdated links. I’ve refrained from revising the original text, except for light edits.
This stitch equivalents topic looks different to me now. I’ve added my current (September 2019) thoughts at the end.
Welcome to issue #2.
Subscriptions have doubled since the first issue was sent out 14 days ago, so welcome to all of you new subscribers!
The “super crochet maneuver” I’ve been thinking about lately is not only a big problem-solver for designers, it can single-handedly put the “free” in freeform! It’s not a big secret, but I get the feeling it’s not common knowledge either.
Update: I’m so inspired by your comments! Your comment may take a few hours to show because they go into a moderation queue.
I’m giving away a copy of the new Delicate Crochetbook by Sharon Silverman to a randomly chosen commenter on this post. You’re welcome to enter even if you live outside of the USA. If you win and you have a non-USA shipping address, you’ll receive a free downloadable crochet pattern of your choice instead. Scroll down for the book giveaway details.
Pattern Riffing
Over the holidays I “riffed” on the patterns I wrote for Delicate Crochet. I’ll explain how, in case you have (OR WIN!!) this book and want to riff too.
Meet Zegue
Zegue is a simple wrap version of the Ziggy Vest. I used up scraps of fancy yarns in my stash. In Ziggy’s case the armholes are cut into the self-healing stitch pattern. I omitted that step for Zegue. (I could still add a hole later, such as for a one-sleeve wrap, or for a keyhole scarf style like I did for the pink Mesmer. Or go with my original idea: add a seam at each end of the long sides to create tubes (sleeves) for a shrug.)
Yarn: I had one small ball each of the four Stacy Charles Fine fashion yarns I used. (See Zegue’s project page in Ravelry for the yarn facts.) One of them has sequins so I had to use it. Using a mix of yarns for the Ziggy stitch pattern was really fun! I’ve always wanted to do a stripy scrappy ripple, especially in Tunisian stitches.
Crochet Hook: I used the 7.0 mm Addi Tunisian crochet hook from my shop; the Ziggy Vest calls for a 6.0 mm size. A 6.5 mm for Zegue would probably be just as lacy though you might need a few more rows and additional stitch repeat or two.
Finished Dimensions: 14″ x 57″ (35.6 x 144.8 cm), measured flat and blocked. I like wearing it as a wrap. For a shrug option I might add buttons. It weighs 71 g. and I had about a quarter of the Luna mohair and Crystal left over.
I chose the length of each row to match the length from my wrist over the shoulders and across the back to the other wrist while my arms hang at my sides—an easy measurement (57″/144.8 cm). This is because I thought I was going to turn it into a shrug. I just kept adding rows until my forearm would fit through the sleeve tube if I seamed part of the first and last row together; I’d need a minimum of about 9″ (22.9 cm). I figured the yarn amount would get me at least this far.
Foundation and Row Repeats: You’ll need the Delicate Crochet book for the actual Ziggy pattern (starts on page 140). Here are my changes for Zegue:
I chained 178 with Color A (Stella).
Row 1 forward pass (FP) is also Stella, and then I changed to Color B (Luna) for the return pass (RP) and the Row 2 FP. Fasten off every time you change yarns.
Row 2 RP and Row 3 FP: Change to Color C (Céline).
Row 3 RP and Row 4 FP: Change to Color B (Luna).
Row 4 RP and Row 5 FP: Change to Colors C+D (Céline & Crystal held together).
Repeat the color sequence of B, C, B, C+D for a total of 16 rows; for Row 16 RP change to Stella. Complete Row 17 FP and RP with Stella and then fasten off.
Edge Row 17 with a strand of Luna and Crystal held together: Single crochet (sc) in first FP stitch, chain 1, slip stitch (ss) in same sc, sc in same stitch, *chain (ch) 1, sc in next FP stitch, ch 1, sc in next stitch group, ch 1, sc in next FP stitch, [sc, ch 1, ss in same sc, sc] in next FP stitch, repeat from * in each remaining FP stitch of row. Fasten off.
Attach Stella to first foundation ch. Working along the other side of the foundation, sc in first ch, ch 1 and skip next ch that was not used by a FP stitch, sc in available loop of next used foundation ch, repeat from * in each remaining stitch of row. Fasten off.
Attach Luna and Crystal to first sc of Stella. Edge this row the same way you edged Row 17.
Yvelino the Paneled Ring Scarf
For this version of the Yveline Wrap I used four colors of lace weight Icelandic wool, one ball per color. See its project page for the yarn deets. I loved this yarn; it’s very “sticky” and almost bristly or wiry in a way that works great with this airy bias-worked net.
Crochet Hooks: 5.0 mm (H) Tunisian hook; for the surface-crochet I used a regular 3.5 mm (E) crochet hook.
Finished Dimensions: 13″ wide with a 58″ circumference (33 x 147.3 cm). It weighs 100 g. so I used only half of each ball. (I thought I might want to add a lot of surface crochet, so I reserved yarn for that.) Instead, I like the texture contrast zones.
Foundation and Row Repeats: You’ll need the Delicate Crochet book (starting on page 133) for the actual Yveline pattern. Here are my changes for Yvelino:
Chain 58 in Color A. Complete 33 rows. Edge the last row with sc.
Slip stitch Color B to the bottom right corner foundation chain of the previous panel. Chain 58. At the end of the Row 1 FP, slip stitch in the first FP stitch of Row 1 of the previous panel and then complete the RP as usual.
Repeat this join-as-you-go process at the end of every FP until you’ve completed 33 rows. Edge it with sc like the previous panel.
Repeat the above with two more panels. For the last panel, also join-as-you-go the first FP stitch of each row to the last FP stitch of the first panel you completed to create a ring. (Or you could seam the first and last panel sides together to for the ring as a separate step.)
Adding the Frills: The only thing different from the book is that I used a 3.5 mm (E) crochet hook, and surface crocheted a column on each side of the joins.
Oh the Resources Buried in Crochet Patterns
I hold onto lots of crochet pattern books and “mine” them for interesting stitch patterns (love those stitch symbols!), shapes (love those schematics!), and construction methods (love the rare assembly diagram!).
The stitch texture combinations, color contrasts, or styling ideas in pattern books are also inspiring.
Ravelry takes this into account so I know I’m not the only one who uses books this way. (When creating a new project page, there used to be a box you checked if you improvised from an existing pattern. Now you can choose additional patterns if you’ve incorporated elements from them.)
Delicate Crochet offers hours and hours of riffing on its interesting stitch patterns, shapes, and styles, thanks to the range of designers represented—and thanks to all the stitch diagrams and schematics.
Book Giveaway Details!
I’ll use a random number generator no earlier than February 18 (Monday, President’s Day) to choose from among the commenters to this post.
There may be two winners: one with a shipping address outside of the USA as well as within it. If the first winner has a non-USA shipping address, the prize will be a free downloadable crochet pattern (winner’s choice). I will then draw a new number randomly until the new winner has a USA address to which I can ship the book.
To contact the winner(s) I will do these three things: comment on your comment with the news, and announce the winner’s name (as it appears on your comment) in my Ravelry group, and at my Facebook page. I suggest you opt-in to receive alerts of responses to your comment in case you’re a winner.
Your comment may respond to my question, “What crochet book would you like me to write?” (as explained in my newsletter #97), or at least be crochet-related. I reserve the right to remove spammy comments as always.
Commenting more than once does not improve your chance of winning.
The triangular Ennis shawl in this two-pattern set is my first and most dramatic Tunisian filet design. The four-sided lavender Diamond Ennis is the most recent. Triangular Ennis was originally designed for Interweave Crochet Magazine, Summer 2013 issue.
Also new for this set is a complete stitch diagram, schematics and plenty of extra information—for lefties too.
Back in 2010 I couldn’t find examples of filet lace done with Tunisian crochet. The original Ennis was my confirmation and encouragement—a revelation. I remember the liberating “Yes, it can be done!” feeling. It inspired the Aero series: Aero, Warm Aeroette, Aery Faery, and Aquarienne, as well as more designs, classes, newsletters, and blog posts over the years. I’ve added links to some of these in the patterns.
They’re lovely on both sides, which I find is typical of Tunisian crochet that is very lacy. Another nice feature of Tunisian lace is that it doesn’t eat up yarn. Even the orange one-skein Ennis can be tied around my medium-size waist on a carefree summer day. I used two skeins for the larger blue one, and two of my Lotus Snack mini-balls for Diamond Ennis. The pattern works with any yarn amount and weight.
Skill Level
Tunisian Intermediate. With this pattern you’ll learn how to crochet a triangular shawl side to side (a.k.a. point to point or P2P), and a diamond shape from the center out. You’ll either increase or decrease along only the starting edge of the forward passes. The dramatic filet border is created as you complete each row, so a long-striping yarn would work well for this.
I’ve kept abbreviations to a minimum.
?After using this pattern, you will know (if you didn’t already):
How to apply principles of filet crochet to Tunisian stitches for a strikingly lacy net.
How to manage different kinds of loops held on the Tunisian crochet hook: temporary vs. Tunisian yarn overs, and completed stitches.
How to crochet a triangle shawl by starting and ending at the upper corners.
How to create a versatile diamond variation using just the gauge swatch.
How to edge Tunisian crochet with filet spaces as you go.
YarnDesigningVashti.com Lotus (52% Cotton, 48% Rayon; 256 yds/235 m per 3.5 oz/100 g skein): use one ball for the smaller orange wrap and 2 balls for the larger blue one. It’s currently available and substitutes perfectly for the (possibly discontinued) orange and blue yarn I used for the original triangle shawls:
Diamond-Ennis (170–240 yds): 38 (41.5, 45)” {96.5 (105.4, 114.3) cm} long and 12 (13, 14)” {30.5 (33.0, 35.6) cm} wide. For the one shown, I used only 1 (2) balls each of DesigningVashti.com Lotus Snack mini-balls (52% Cotton, 48% Rayon; 85 yds/77.7 m per 1.16 oz/33 g skein), Satin Grey and Lavender Ice.
Halter Vest: Torso circumference is 38 (41.5, 45)” {96.5 (105.4, 114.3) cm}. Each solid-stitch bra cup section spans approx. 7.5 (8.5, 9.5)” {19.1 (21.6, 24.1) cm} in height and width.Neckline drop is 12 (13, 14.5)”. The ties add range to these final dimensions. Dimensions are given for sizes X-Small/Small, with Medium and Large in parentheses. See p. 9 for customizing the dimensions and yarn amounts.
Shoulder Drape: 38 (41.5, 45)” long x 12 (13, 14.5)” wide {105.4 (114.3) cm x 33.0 (36.8) cm}.
Yarn: Southwest Trading Company Bamboo (100% bamboo; 250 yd [229 m]/3.53 oz [100 g]): 1 (#411 Tequila) or 2 (#128 Ocean Life) skeins, possibly discontinued:
Two-skein (500 yds) blue shawl: About 62” {157.5 cm} wide from point to point and 25” {63.5 cm} long atdeepest point of triangle.
One-skein (250 yds) orange shoulder wrap: About 50” {127.0 cm} wide from point to point and 20” {50.8 cm} long at deepest point of triangle.
Substituting: Pattern works the same if you use one color throughout. Choose a yarn with a recommended crochet hook size range of E/4–G/7 {3.5 mm–4.5 mm}. Or use any yarn weight and a hook size that is appropriate for it.
Large Seed Beads and a steel hook (optional for ties): 18 seed beads per tie. Capelet style needs two ties (36 beads) and the halter style needs four (72 beads). The bead holes need to be large enough for a loop of your yarn to be pulled through with a steel crochet hook. For the Lotus yarn I used size 6° “e-beads” and a size 10 {1.3 mm} steel hook.
Notions: Two stitch markers. Scissors. Yarn needle.
Here it is just a week before I fly out to Portland, Oregon to teach five crochet classes at the Chain Link conference. I have a quick update on my preparations for my class on star stitch lace, The Starwirbel Way!
I converted a Starwirbel (tube in spiraling rounds) into a flat rectangular wrap.How to get the same kind of lace as a flat rectangle? People have requested this for years and I’ve swatched it several times. I love this one! (Pictured above, in progress.) It retains for me the experience and special effects of making it.
More importantly in the long run, it means we can now use Starwirbel fabric to make anything.
Starwirbel Now has a Stitch Diagram
For those of us who like to use stitch diagrams, we’ll have time in class to go over Starwirbel’s. Star stitch diagrams can be a bit quirky to understand at first.
I’ve been looking forward to sharing some sneak peeks! You’re looking at Tunisian crochet eyelets on the diagonal, frilled ? with love knots ?. I used our Lotus yarn in these colors: Carbonite, Pearly Pearl, Satin Grey, and Lustrous Tan.
If you’re going to the conference and you took one of my earlier Tunisian lace classes, Yveline will want to meet you too. I brought swatches to those earlier classes that have since come of age in the form of the lovely Yveline.
Her Story
First, the name. It started out “Lean In” because that’s what I called the early swatches. It fascinated me how much some Tunisian stitches liked to lean with a little encouragement. Not just how much, but the kind of movement; sometimes it’s like Tunisian lace stitches have hinges or ball joints.
When it came time for a grown up name, I was in a dual swoon from binge-watching the Versailles series while adding the love knot frills! I looked for names associated with Versailles and learned that the city is located in a département called Yvelines.
About Those Love Knots
I’m still swooning a bit from using love knots for surface embellishment. I haven’t seen anyone else do this and it’s just the kind of odd new thing I like to try each time I teach 21st Century Love Knot Adventures. (I mean, look at what I called the class.)
It did take several swatches. Remember last year when I did a newsletter on ruffles? It was shortly after I shipped Yveline to Sharon, the book author. I’d been swatching and meditating on the essence of a crocheted ruffle for a few months.
The Tunisian eyelet fabric is so airy and “flexy” (another name I gave to the early swatches) that most of the ruffles I tried were too heavy. I love how airy the love knot frills are! Love!
About the Ruffle Idea
The urge to frill has a story too. Years ago I crocheted the cutest little bag. It’s Tunisian simple stitch with ruffles surface-crocheted on it.
So that’s my Delicate Crochet story of Yveline. I have a very different story coming up about the other design I did for the book!
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